Na Loko I’a O Kalahuipua’a
View Camera Magazine, July/August 2011
I’m all about the New Mexican desert; mesas, sand, heat, sage, juniper –that sort of thing. If it wasn’t for the lava flow, I’d probably feel entirely out of place in this Hawaiian coastal landscape. I came upon the ponds by accident, completely taken by their beauty and mystery, the questions they asked. The old, hand laid lava rock walls that define the ponds segue perfectly into the natural lava flow, forming pond upon pond, a testament to the ancient practice of Hawaiian aqua culture. I spent as much time as possible in this place, making pictures with a small digital camera, which ultimately, would become the visual notes necessary for planning a serious sojourn.
Na Loko I’a O Kalahuipua’a, the ancient fishponds of Hawaiian royalty, including King Kamehameha’s rule, are located 26 miles north of Kona along the Kohala coast, big island of Hawaii. Although their origins are shrouded in legend and inconclusive carbon dating, they were possibly constructed as early as 1200 AD.
Two of the seven ponds run along the ocean, separated by walls of basalt and coral up to nine feet thick atop reef. The others recede inland, natural anchialine pools, their levels rising and falling with the tide as water seeps through porous lava or circulates through sluice gates cleverly devised in ancient times to prevent fattened fish from escaping. Small fish entered through the gate’s narrow slats to feed on scraps of taro, breadfruit, or sweet potatoes added to the ponds, and as the fish grew plump, they would no longer fit through the narrow slats of the makaha. The fish were easily harvested with long nets held on either side of the ponds, while others splashed the water to drive the fish into the nets.
When I returned to Kalahuipua’a last February with my super wide 4x5, I lived with the ponds for 10 days, photographing every early morning and late afternoon into evening. Having a relatively short period of time in which to work, it was important for me to be mindful of the camera not getting in the way of the landscape, not attempting to photograph everything, to spend time just being with this magical place, meditating in it, experiencing a sense of it’s essence.
Daniel Peebles